Archive for September, 2010

Back from the Balkans

Tuesday, September 28th, 2010

Since Sunday 19th September I am back from the Balkans and I have to admit, it is as hard as I thought. It feels like I have left my “srce” (heart in Serbian) in the Balkans. There was not a second that I did not felt good or that I did not enjoyed it. Friends and family who saw already some pictures told me that I was “shining” of  happiness, and yes I was….

I traveled a lot in Macedonia and Serbia, almost 2500 km… In Macedonia I have been in Skopje, Kicevo, climbed mount Korab (alt 2764 m a.s.l.), Struga, Kruševo and Prilep. The 9th September I left Macedonia behind me and traveled to Serbia in 13 hours (!) from Kicevo to Kraljevo. In Serbia I have been in Kraljevo, climbed Midžor (alt 2168m a.s.l), Lazac, Mokra Gora and Beograd. On Korab I set one foot in Albania and on Midžor, I set one foot in Bulgaria. (click on the map below to enlarge).
The mountain climbing was great: after hours of suffering (the climbing) it gives a good feeling to reach the top and to enjoy the splendid view….It was more then that, it gives a feeling I cannot describe, it made me really happy and encouraged me to climb more….

Cœur des Balkans

Au cœur des Balkans,
un homme étranger grimpe des montagnes,
pour trouver son cœur, son scre.

Après des kilomètres qu’il a grimpé et souffert
il est finalement au sommet et il regarde autour
au plus beau paysage qu’il a jamais vu.

Son cœur a fondu immédiatement comme la neige après un long été,
car il voudrait rester parce qu’il a senti que son cœur
reste ici, au cœur d’un sommet dans les Balkans.

Malheureux il a descendu en traversant la neige qui est resté pendant l’été,
malheureux pour laisser son srce au sommet au cœur des Balkans,
mais heureux d’emmener un belle moment dans son scre vers le voyage en bas.

Korab (MK), le 5 septembre 2010

(the picture above is also available as desktop background)

The pictures are of course online now, look here I would say:

Korab climbing (Macedonia), 5 th September 2010

I want to thank all those who made it happen. I want to thank them for their friendship, help,laughing, sharing special moments, partying, talking etc. etc. etc.

A special thanks to:  Angel, Boban, Brane, Darko, Dragorad, Giga Ta, Gordana, Igor, Igor, Karl, Kire, Luka, Marija, Jovanka,  Marijana, Marija, Matej, Milan, Roco, Saša, Slavko, Tamara, Zvezdana, Zorica, Zorica and not to forget Sybieeeeee the cat :-) and all the others I have forgotten here (sorry)…
One day I will be back in the Balkans, but in my srce (heart) it will feel like I have never left…

Manastir Žiča/ Жича (Monastery Žiča)

Tuesday, September 14th, 2010

After the sins of yesterday evening it was today time to clean the soul and ask forgiveness from God, so we went to one of the most beautifulest monasteries in Serbia: Жича/Žiča which is only a couple of kilometers from Kraljevo.Жича / Žiča is a very important place in Serbian history. It was built by the first King of Serbia, Stefan Nemanjic (the First-Crowned) in 1208. It was destroyed by the end of 13th century, but was rebuilt by King Stefan Milutin at the beginning of the 14th century.Žiča was by tradition royal church of Serbian kings, and although a king could be crowned in any Serbian church, he was never considered true king until he was anointed in Žiča.The red color of the exterior walls is a symbol of the blood of the martyrs of the early Christian church. I find this a really beautiful church /monastery, it is one of my favorites! When I visit Orthodox monasteries and churches I always get a beautiful feeling inside, it gives me a peaceful and calm feeling.Above and below the entrance of the beautiful church of Žiča/ Жича
So me and my friends asked forgiveness for our sins and after I bought my souvenirs it was time to go back to the “normal” world.

For more info look on their beautiful website (yes I could not believe it first!): http://www.zica.org.rs , a part is already in English, but most is in Serbian for the moment.

Relaxing sunday in Kraljevo

Monday, September 13th, 2010

Yesterday I had a relaxing Sunday in Kraljevo with my friends. We were a bit tired, because Saturday we climbed Midžor/ Миџор, so we decided to relax. We slept out, had a good breakfast annex lunch and then we did some shopping. The have a huge supermarket here in Kraljevo, called Tempo and it is open 7 days in the week 24/24! This supermarket reminds me a bit to the huge supermarkets like Carrefour in France, unfortunately we don have such supermarkets in the Netherlands :-(

After we did the shopping we walked a bit in the town: in the Balkans they have a habit that everybody walk in the main street from the beginning to the end and back. The latest gossips are shared and it functions also as a dating office :-) We went to sit on a new roof terrace with a magic view on Kraljevo and the statue of Milutin, an unknown Serbian soldier.After we finished our drink we walked slowly back to our car, because this evening we would have a barbecue.We passed the archive of Kraljevo (below)….And the church (below)…..The preparations were done, so the barbecue could start. The picture below is very idyllic, but it was really the place were we spend a wonderful evening and night with eating, drinking, talking, more drinking, singing…..Yes this Serbia, where fun is easy to get  :-)

On the roof of Srbija

Sunday, September 12th, 2010

Yesterday, 11th September I climbed Midžor/ Миџор with 2168 meters a.s.l. the highest peak of Serbia (if you do not include Kosovo). I went with my friend from Kraljevo to climb this mountain, but first we had to travel 270km to reach the starting point for the relatively easy climb to the top.Midžor is a peak of Stara Planina (Old mountain) and is on the border of Bulgaria, so it is in the East of Serbia. It is a very remote area and it looks like if you are traveling through a fairytale from a long time ago. But modern times also did arrived  here as we discovered in Babin Zub, a ski center under development with new ski-lifts for example.

After the usual preparations it was time for climbing, below a view on Midžor (the peak on the right) seen from the Babin Zub hotel annex ski-center (on 1758 meters a.s.l).Then we started to climb and of course I made a lot of pictures, which I will put later online, but I liked the one below, therefor I already placed it here.After 2 hours and 40 minutes we finally reached the top of Midžor, because it was not so hard at all to reach the top :-) . On the Bulgarian side there were only clouds, but on the Serbian side there was of course sunce (=sun) :-) The view was astonishing and breathtaking, because as you can see  it is a very beautiful area: it looks almost untouched by humans. The clouds rapidly moved, so in one minute you could be totally in the clouds, while the other minute you could see the sun again.

Of course we made a pictures with the the flags I carried (the Dutch one and an European one, since I hope Serbia will be soon accepted in the “European family”). On the foot of the stone on the peak (which is also the border stone) there was a guest book which we of course signed. Very funny detail: there was a cigarette in the box, for those who could have run out of cigarettes :-) Yeah come on, this is the Balkans :-) Unfortunately to all good things comes an end, because we had to descend to be before dark down. Below a very beautiful view into Serbia.And looking back one more time to Midžor, back in the clouds….

A last picture from the “roof of Srbija”….It was a very beautiful day, it always feels good to reach the top of a mountain :-) Special thanks to my friend Darko, who was willing to drive more then 500km and to share this beautiful day with me.

Macedonia, day 6: Kruševo

Tuesday, September 7th, 2010

The 7th of September I went to visit Kruševo, in the center of Macedonia. It is the highest town in Macedonia, situated at an altitude of over 1250 m above sea level. I wanted to visit Kruševo already several times before, but I never managed and this time I did.

Kruševo is famous from the Illinden uprising, when the Macedonians declared their  independence from the Ottomans. Their self-declared republic is known as Kruševska republika and was established here in 1903 during that Ilinden insurrection.

One of the most important points in the Ilinden uprising was the declaration of the “Manifesto of Kruševo”. It called for all the people of Macedonia regardless of their nationality and religion to fight together against the Ottoman Empire and live peacefully in a free country of Macedonia.This uprising is every year remembered in Macedonia on the 2nd of August and is called “Illinden”day.

There are two important monuments remembering this Illinden uprising which I wanted to visit:

1. The Makedonium (see below); in this monument all the bones are stored of those who were killed by the Ottomans during the Illinden uprising.2. The Mečkin Kamen (Bear’s Rock): a monument remembering the Illinden uprising and the first independent Macedonian republic, see below. This was the place where Pitu Guli’s band (cheta) was trying to defend the town of Kruševo from the Turkish troops coming from Bitola. The whole band and their leader (voivode) perished and Kruševo as well as many of the nearby villages were set to fire by the Ottomans.Kruševo is also known as the birthplace of Toše Proeski, a famous Macedonian singer and songwriter. Toše died in a car crash in October 2007 and the Macedonian nation was in shock. Kruševo became a site of pilgrimage for the fans of Toše.

Due the geographical position of Kruševo (it is on a high altitude) you have a nice view to the Pelagonia plain.


It was very nice that I finally visited Kruševo. One more thing to add: they want make of Kruševo an “ethno-town”, supported by the Ministry of Culture of the Republic of Macedonia. According to that project, Kruševo shall look like a town from the beginning of the 20th century where it was the center of the Ilinden Uprising in 1903, that lead to the creation of the first Republic on the Balkans, The Krusevo Republic. People will be dressed like Ottoman Turks and Macedonian revolutionary freedom fighters. The project aims to make Kruševo a main tourist destination in five years.

I went to the Tourist Office and wanted to ask what to visit: I got immediately a reply “I don  speak English”. Then the Macedonian who went with me translated and I wanted to know something about a monument. The lady replied, “I don  know”…. Come on people, if you want to make this a main tourist destination then please place somebody competent there who at least speaks English, because like this it will not work……

Macedonia: day 4: Korab

Monday, September 6th, 2010

The 5th of September I climbed mount Korab, with 2754 meters (some say 2764  meters) the highest mountain of Macedonia and Albania. This year I was honored I could climb again withe the friendly people from the mountain club from Kicevo. We had a lot of fun, but of course we had to suffer also a lot. Korab is not an easy mountain, but I reached the top in 4 1/2 hours, much quicker and easier then the first time in 2008.

I made amazing pictures and of course I will share them on the Internet, but it are my holidays now , so I will place them later.

I want to thank all those for their help so that I could climb mount Korab. I am happy and excited I did it again :-) Pozdrav od Kicevo, Makedonija!!!The pictures are online, look here !

Yes there was even snow :-)

In Macedonia: day 1&2

Saturday, September 4th, 2010

Since Thursday I am in Macedonia and it is nice to be back. Thursday morning I started to climb the Vodno mountain, which is 1066 meters high. I did  as a little test for sunday, when I go to climb Korab, with 2754 meters the highest mountain of Macedonia.

I reached the top in 2 hours and 20 minutes, so test accomplished :-) I am in Kicevo by my friends :-) after I took the train.I was lucky, because the train trip was for free since I traveled with somebody who could take me for free…

Pozdrav od Makedonija!!!