Archive for June, 2010

Kieler woche

Wednesday, June 30th, 2010

From 23th until the 27th June I was invited to celebrate “Kieler woche”(=Kieler week) which is held annually in, yes Kiel. The city is at the end of the “Kieler fjorde”  which is on the shores of the Baltic Sea in Northern- Germany. My friend was in the organizing committee and I can say only that he did organize it very well :-)

During the “Kieler woche”there are several cultural activities and of course a lot of parties. I had the honor the get in touch and follow a folk dance group from Kaliningrad (Russia), a folk dance/ music group from Kiev (UA) and last but not least the Slovenian band “ICE”. My friend had to arrange everything for them and he arranged that I and some other friends could join their program.

We visited for example a war monument in Laboe for those who felt during WW I and II on sea (Kiel is a harbor for the navy), I sailed with some friends, we saw fireworks and we did some other really great things.

On Sunday it was time for me to travel to my next destination Vilnius (in Lithuania), but not before I saw the football match Germany- England in the center of Hamburg, where a friend invited me for. A great end of some great days in Northern Germany….and in Hamburg a felt like in a Dutch TV commercial with my shirt, but got a lot of nice reactions :-)

Thanks to everybody :-) Below some pictures more will follow of course when I am home.

World Championship in South Africa

Monday, June 21st, 2010

I don ‘t like football, I do not follow it, I do not know a lot about it, but I do like the World Championship football which is now held in South-Africa. It is a very easy subject of conversation I have noticed last days and I have to admit, I like it. It is good to see the world united, despite that everybody is for some other team, but that does not matter, because only the fact that people talk about the same subject is what matters :-)

Of course the Netherlands is through the first round, which is nice and makes it much more fun for me, but it is nice to see teams like New Zealand or Serbia with good results against the favorites….I hope the best may win with fair play, we will see next coming weeks :-)

Last Saturday I had my first Vuvuzela experience, during the game Japan against the Netherlands: it takes quite an effort to play this “instrument” :-)

5200km in 12 days….

Wednesday, June 16th, 2010

Yes, within a week I am going to make a trip again, but a very busy one: 3 countries (Germany, Lithuania and France) and +/-5200 km in 12 days. Will I survive this ? Will I miss the Balkans? I have to discover and I will see and experience……Traveling is discovering….

A short overview (the kilometers are counted from the start point)
‘s-Hertogenbosch (NL)-Kiel (D) by train: 617 km
Kiel (D)-Riga (LV)-Vilnius (LT) by plane: 1930km
Vilnius (LT)-Ukmerge (LT) by bus: 2013 km
Ukmerge (LT)-Les Herbiers (F) by bus, plane and train: 4210 km
Les Herbiers (F)-’s-Hertogenbosch by train: 5210km

And then what I am going to do? I will explain you in short:
-In Germany a friend invited me in Kiel, to celebrate (with him and other friends/ acquaintances of me and him ) the “Kieler woche”, the biggest sail event in the world.

-In Lithuania I will visit a friend to see her new born child.

-In France I will attend the wedding of my friends.

Wish me a good trip: I hope I can write something on my blog, but I don ‘t know, probably I am traveling…. Why I will do this? First of all I want to see my friends ( I can ‘t help they live so far) and second of all I like traveling…

When I will start this trip via the station of ‘s-Hertogenbosch I will see a famous (Dutch poetic) sentence when I will take the stairs to the platforms (of the trains)  : “Al reizend ervaart men het leven vreemder: overal anders en overal eender’. (“While traveling people experience life different:  everywhere different and everywhere the same).

“U Jugoslavia je sve moguće”, part 8: 25th May: birthday of Tito

Wednesday, June 16th, 2010

I think this will be the last part of my blogs about my holidays in Serbia, soon (23th June) I will make a new trip  through Germany, Lithuania and France. As you can see the title is this time not “U Srbiji je sve moguće” (=in Serbia everything is possible), but  “U Jugoslavia je sve moguće” (in Yugoslavia everything is possible).

Why you wrote this,I see you asking,  because Yugoslavia does not exist anymore as we all know?  I wrote this, because the 25th may I was sitting at the railway station in Beograd and drinking a coffee with a friend: it was my last day in Serbia and unfortunately I had to go home: I dropped my luggage at the station, so I could walk my last hours in Beograd freely, before taking the taxi to the airport.

So I was siting there and enjoying my coffee, when suddenly people passed by with Yugoslav flags and a flag I remembered….Yes it were the people of “Sojuz na titovi levi sili” (Union of Marshal Tito’s left forces),people I met last year in Skopje (Macedonia) and it seemed they just arrived by train from Skopje …

Unfortunately they were very quick and I was relaxing and drinking a coffee with a friend, so I could not talk to them, but they were there! On the 25th May it was Tito’s birthday and when Yugoslavia existed it was “the Day of the Youth”: there was a special youth relay with torches which passed through every major town through whole Yugoslavia, from Ohrid to Jesenice, from Bar to Subotica and from Negotin to Koper, the relay ended always in Beograd when the torch was given to Josip Broz Tito.

So on my last day in Beograd, several thousands people (estimation from B92) from every corner of Yugoslavia came to visit Tito’s memorial in Beograd to remember “the Day of the Youth”  and to mourn about what they have lost: their country Yugoslavia…

For me it was time to leave “Yugoslavia” and it felt as if I had to leave my heart somewhere in Yugoslavia: “U Jugoslavia je sve moguće”…

“U Srbiji je sve moguće”, part 7: Teddy in Beograd :-)

Tuesday, June 8th, 2010

Part  7 of my still unwritten stories from my latest holidays in Serbia (under the title “U Srbiji je sve moguće”=in Serbia everything is possible) contains a “light” subject: yes it is about teddy bears in Beograd :-) . The second day when I was in Beograd I had a meeting with Karl, the webmaster of www.ambassador-serbia.com. We met in a park where he was with his daughter. We decided to go to the pub and Luna, his little daughter went with us.

She had two little Teddy’s with her and she told me that she takes them with her everywhere and make then a picture of them somewhere in Beograd…. below in bar ok.no
And then when Luna left for a minute I could made secretly a picture :-) which you will find below:  Yes I know I am a bad guy, I could be from the tabloids ;-)
Luna has even her own website : www.teddy-belgrade.com

You see again “U Srbiji je sve moguće”, Teddy’s in Beograd :-)

“U Srbiji je sve moguće” part 6: Kosovo?

Monday, June 7th, 2010

This is part 6 already of my unwritten stories of my latest holiday’s in Serbia, under the title “U Srbiji je sve moguće” (=in Serbia everything is possible) and it is the most complicated one. I will be honest: the first draft for this blog was written on the 24th May 2010 around 23h59. Now it is the 7th June 2010 and I want to finish this draft. It is about the most complicated and most delicate subject in Serbia, yes it is “Kosovo”. I find it a very difficult subject, because the problem with this subject is that you are soon being accused for “taking a side”. This subject is so complicated, so gray (in other words: not “black”or “white”) and full with emotions that I did not want to write about it, but I have to.

I had my lesson before in “Balkan politics” when I “took a side” in the Macedonian name issue (Greece still does not accept the name “Macedonia”, because they see it as their name and heritage) : the result was that I lost Greek “friends”and got a lot of negative reactions in different ways. This was a wise lesson, but on the other hand I also have a point of view, which I assume, can express freely.

-Back to the subject-
The 24th May I wrote (when I was in Kraljevo): Today I had some really nice conversations with my Serbian friends about everything in life. I really enjoyed it, I really hope that we can continue these discussions in future and I think I we can. The main fact is that there are not of lot of differences between “them” (=my Serbian friends and acquaintances) and me: we all share most of the European values about a democratic society and the freedom of expression, the freedom just “to be”.

Of course, when you are in Serbia, the subject Kosovo comes into the discussion if you want: you can trigger it or you can avoid it: I tried to trigger some opinions about this subject from my friends, but only because I am interested. I know I can avoid it and my friends will respect that, because for them it is more difficult to talk about it then me: I am not involved,because I am the spoiled Western citizen who is at the first sight not involved . On the other hand it was me who started about it, not them, so I cannot blame them anything, neither their opinions.

Another point is that it is difficult to be in a city (Kraljevo) where there a lot of people who are “former” refugees from Kosovo, it is difficult when a lot of people had to go there and had to fight, just the simple fact that they were  obliged by their government. I realize then again that I am from a country which never forced me to go to war and  tears fall down now that I was that lucky.

Those people around me, my friends, were not that lucky at all, they had to fight, they had to shelter for the NATO bombs or had to flew away out of Kosovo. Kosovo is not the key point, most of friends did not want to talk about it, they just want to have a normal decent live, they want to move forward.

And there it stopped in Kraljevo on the 24th May,  so we are back in today’s reality, the 7th June. When I read the text above, there is one thing which I cannot forget: it were those 3 children I gave a “lesson” about the Netherlands in a facility for refugees of all kind (old, young).  What I saw was the  “Yugoslav mix”: Macedonian mother, Bosnian father, Serbian father, Bosnian mother, Croatian father, Kosovo mother, I don’t remember and it was  for me not anymore important, but one child told me: I am from Kosovo!!!

Could I watch him straight in the eyes? Could I watch my Balkan friends straight in the eyes? Yes I could, I can and I will, because it feels like it has nothing to do anymore with me personally or with them….This has nothing to do anymore with “dirty politics”, this is about friendship.  Honestly, I do not care about the independence of Kosovo, but I did my research: I did read a lot about it, I thought about the deeper aspects, the consequences, faced the human tragedies (on every side), the injustice, the pain and the future and still:  what I should think about it? I traveled through whole Yugoslavia for last 6 years, made a lot of “new” friends everywhere, experienced beautiful things and probably I lost my heart somewhere there…

This has nothing to do anymore with Kosovo (if it is Serbian or Kosovo), this has to do with my continued feeling of injustice in this world, the injustice my friends had to face and most of them are still paying the price…

Final paragraph: I wrote about it earlier on this blog, but I will quote a little bit: the 22nd May I was standing 50-100 meters from the “Kosovo-Serbian” border with my Serbian friends, on a mountain, with a splendid view. We met a Shepard with his sheep and dog “Jacky” who cross the border without any problems so far.  My only wish is that they can continue with crossing borders without any problems in the future, as I can here now in Europe….

Will it stay “U Srbiji je sve moguće”? I hope so….because being in Serbia is crossing borders (for me), but once you have crossed it, there is no way back, because there are no more borders anymore…

“U Srbiji je sve moguće”, part 5: registration….

Saturday, June 5th, 2010

This is part 5 already of the unwritten stories of my latest holiday’s in Serbia, under the title “U Srbiji je sve moguće”. This time I want to write you about relation between the police in Serbia and the registration process for foreigners.

Officially Dutch citizens do not need visa for Serbia, they can travel 90 days freely in Serbia, but it means also that officially you need to register when you stay by private persons. So the 17th May I went again for the third time to the Kraljevo police office and the lovely lady (above 50 years old, ex-communist probably and extremely friendly) did recognized me from last year. She did not spoke English, but my friend Darko translated for me.

The conversation went like this almost:

<Police>  Hey how are you?
<Me> I am fine, thank you
<Police> So you are here again?
<Me>Da (yes), I am here again.
<Police>So you are back, you are coming to marry here or what ?
<Me> No I don ‘t come to marry here, I am only visiting my friends.
<Police> Oh? But do you want to marry a Serbian lady?
<Me> I don ‘t know, I did not think about it, but I am not rejecting the idea.
<Police> Wait we take another form, the form you filled in was not correct.
<Darko> Do we need to buy a new form?
<Police> No I have one here for you. I will take it, one second.
<Police> When are you leaving?
<Me> 25th May, via Belgrado airport.
<Police> And when you are coming back ?
<Me> I don ‘t know, probably September
<Police> Do you know that my daughter studied architecture? She was on the high school with the name…
<Darko> Oh I have been studying there
<Me> What she is talking?
<Darko> Her daughter studied architecture
<Police>When you will be here next time and you want to marry a Serbian lady, let me know…
< Police> clabash……. (the sound of a stamp)
Have a nice time in Kraljevo and let me know, next time we will arrange something for you, a nice proper Serbian lady….

“U Srbiji je sve moguće”……. :-)

“U Srbiji je sve moguće”-part 4: war

Thursday, June 3rd, 2010

This time not a very positive blog, the title says enough, but it is unfortunately part of  what I saw and heard during my holidays. Yes in Serbia I was again faced with the traces of war: the Balkan wars, the first and second world war and of course the NATO bombings in 1999. You can avoid it or you can face it, it is very easy, but when I saw the  traces of that last war (the NATO bombings) I felt ashamed , because my country also participated in it.

At that time I was sitting in the Netherlands behind my television to see how “Yugoslavia” was bombed, but my (then unknown) Serbian friends where sitting in the shelters, because of the bombs my country also dropped above their heads…..

I tried not to talk too much about war, but sometimes the subject came into the discussion, because I want to know how my Serbian friends faced it, they could not run away from it at that time. Some friends talked easily about it, some friends had a visible difficulty with it, which of course I respect. When I heard their stories I always realized (and still do) that I am a very rich person, because I never had to face war.

A little resume: The NATO bombing of Yugoslavia lasted from March 24, 1999 to June 11, 1999, because of the crises in Kosovo.  A massive campaign of ethnic cleansing in Kosovo (known as Operation Horseshoe) was cited as the reason for the intervention. Around 500 people (estimation) in Yugoslavia  were killed during this NATO operation.

Kraljevo was bombed because of its strategic position on the main road from Belgrade to Kosovo and the presence of the “Yugoslav” airbase Lađevci. South of Kraljevo we passed the village of Bogutovac (during our very nice trip to Studenica and Kopaonik)  and  my friends told me that this was the most bombed place per square meter of Yugoslavia

When we passed the village you could not see it, because it seemed to be cleaned up very well, but when you look better you could. Bogutovac was a  very strategic place, because it is on the entry of the valley of the Ibar valley from Belgrade towards Kosovo: there were also strategic secret supplies for the Serbian army, so here the reason why this was the most bombed place per square meter of Serbia.  Some damage can still be seen, as seen below….

First I did not want to write about this, but actually I do want to write about it, because you cannot run away from reality. It is the always “two sides never ending story”. Despite my government dropped (internationally forbidden cluster) bombs on “Yugoslavia” , despite we (=the Dutch government) are blocking Serbia now for signing the SAA agreements , nobody in Serbia ever offended me because of this.

Some people told me they went insane of going every night to the shelters, some people told me about the great parties they had, but I can never judge or imagine how it was. War is something terrible and my friends had to deal with it.

An older friend had to go to Kosovo to fight, because he was obliged to; his family was always worried about him, but he returned and he is my friend.  Another person flew from Serbia because he did not want to fight in Kosovo, he is my friend. A lady from Kosovo had to flew, she is my friend. Some were to young to fight, they are my friends. Some just flew away, they are my friends.  The children (refugees from Kosovo) to whom I gave a lesson about the Netherlands two weeks ago, they are innocent and they are the future. BUT also all my friends in Serbia who can step over this and I assure you, they can.

And me? I hope one day we all can be re-united and learn from the failures of the past….Of what I heard and saw in Serbia the Serbs are more willing to do that (and yes they have to) then here in the Netherlands, again:  “U Srbiji je sve moguće”. In remembrance of all who lost their lives in “Yugoslavia” during the useless war of 1999 and those useless wars before, because war is always useless…Let ‘s head towards to future without wars….

“U Srbiji je sve moguće”-part 3: Железнице Србије / Železnice Srbije

Tuesday, June 1st, 2010

Yes this is third part of my unwritten stories about my latest holidays in Serbia, under the title “U Srbiji je sve moguće” (=in Serbia everything is possible).

Part 3 is going about another passion of me, beside my “Balkan passion”, yes it is my “trains” passion.The best thing you can do in that situation is to combine these: trains in the Balkans :-) . The 15th May I did combine this perfectly when I went from Belgrado to Kraljevo via Lapovo (on corridor X, below a picture of railway corridor X). For those who do not know corridor “X”, I will explain it to you in brief: Corridor “X” is the pan-European corridor from Salzburg/Vienna (AT) towards Athens and Istanbul. More info here.

In Lapovo I had a small introduction to the Железнице Србије / Železnice Srbije (=Serbian Railways), because somebody from the Serbian railway syndicate guided me. After this introduction it was time for me to take the train to Kraljevo via Kragujevac. A small ex-Swedish rail-bus took me towards my friends in Kraljevo.

After I gave a Dutch railways tie (from my father) to one of the conductors I could manage to make some pictures from the driver’s position….. So here they come (just a selection, full is available at my website of course)…
And then we arrived at Kraljevo. The conductors invited me to have a beer with them, which would be of course impolite to refuse. There was just some strange thing about the two conductors on that little train: One wears the uniform of the Železnice Srbije (Serbian railways) and one still wears the uniform Jugoslovenske železnice (Yugoslav railways)….

They wanted a picture together, so I made that of course and delivered that at their homes of course (thanks to Darko) , because I promised them so a promise is promise….

I had a great railway day in Serbia (where it is still forbidden to make pictures of trains following my latest information), but it is Serbia and now you now already “U Srbiji je sve moguće” :-)

“U Srbiji je sve moguće”-part 2: meeting cats :-)

Tuesday, June 1st, 2010

“U Srbiji je sve moguće”, in Serbia everything is possible, the motto I use to share some moments of my latest holidays in Serbia.  This evening an easy one: close encounters with cats… here the cats of Zemun… What a life :-)